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Resawing air dried black walnut5/12/14
Three years ago I had a black walnut log sawed into ~2'x11' planks, each about 4 to 4.5 inches thick. I plan on building a live edge dining room table. THey have been stickered and air drying next to my house in a shelter I built. Looking back, I probably should have cut the slabs a little thinner so they would dry quicker. Similar tables have finished thicknesses closer to 2.5". I have two questions:
Take a pin meter with insulated needed and see what sort of gradient you have. If none, the resawing should go smoothly.
Do you detect any cupping or other warping at this point? Determining moisture gradient is important, since you don't want to resaw when there is stress in the boards. Boards that wide can be tricky to resaw, I would rip them in half, resaw, kiln dry, surface & plane them, then joint and reassemble the pieces.
Nothing obvious, but it's hard to tell while they're stacked and covered by my shelter. I've attached some pictures.
I have a pin moisture meter, but that's only good to an ~1 inch. The most effective way, and I did this after year one, is to cut off an end and measure the cut face. At the time, it was still obviously wet in the middle...football-shaped green center. I would rather not take too many cutoffs. Because the planks are so thick, the cutoff lengths get to be more loss than I would like. There's probably no other way though.
I can rip the planks narrower for the pieces that will be used for projects other than my table top. But I would not want to rip the table boards. If 4-4.5" thickness is too much or too wasteful for the top and I should resaw as a result, that's where it seems I will have the most difficulty unless they are bone dry. That's what I think I'm hearing here. Maybe it's not worth the risk and I should plan on taking the 4-4.5" thickness down to the final dimension without trying to salvage thinner pieces.
A table with a 4" top will never be stolen. lol