<video id="75bvl"><noframes id="75bvl">
<listing id="75bvl"><thead id="75bvl"><listing id="75bvl"></listing></thead></listing>
<listing id="75bvl"></listing>
<listing id="75bvl"><cite id="75bvl"></cite></listing>
<var id="75bvl"><ruby id="75bvl"><th id="75bvl"></th></ruby></var><th id="75bvl"><th id="75bvl"></th></th><noframes id="75bvl">
<listing id="75bvl"></listing>
<span id="75bvl"><strike id="75bvl"><dl id="75bvl"></dl></strike></span>



Antique Finish for Natural Pine

      Finishers share ideas for creating this effect. February 26, 2005

I need an antique finish on natural pine. Any suggestions for stains and glazes would be appreciated. We normally use SW products, but are open to advice.

Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
Two light coats of amber shellac. Scuff lightly with 320. Gilsonite (no fiber) or asphaltum wipe. Allow to dry a few hours even though it will still be tacky. Light coat of vinyl sealer and the topcoat of your choice.

Gilsonite is a redder brown and asphaltum is a greener brown. Either way, these tars will have to be diluted with naptha or mineral spirits quite a bit, maybe more than 700% (7 parts thinner to 1 part tar).

The asphaltum will look more antique than the gilsonite because a greener brown is a more authentic anitque/aged look than a redder brown.

You could also add some flyspecking. Van dyke brown or raw umber specks will work. Your flyspecking material ought to be one which does not clump and leave a pimple shape. Glaze definitely leaves little mounds. Colored lacquer does not. But colored lacquer is a one shot deal and not very reversible unless you use a fast-dry thinner so that the specks are almost dry as they hit your surfaces.

For flyspecking I like UTC colorants mixed in VM&P naptha. If you don't like how they look, wipe them back off with a rag soaked in naptha. When they look right, spray on a light coat of sealer or lacquer to lock them in.

Try flyspecking over a vinyl or clearcoated sealed surface with TransTints mixed with water. If you don't like the effect, wipe it off with a damp rag. It doesn't leave mounds as there's no binder. You can flash dry it with a hair dryer if you're in a hurry.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?

Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Finishing

  • KnowledgeBase: Finishing: General Wood Finishing

  • KnowledgeBase: Finishing: High Speed Production

  • KnowledgeBase: Finishing: Refinishing

  • KnowledgeBase: Woodworking Miscellaneous

  • KnowledgeBase: Woodworking Miscellaneous: Woodworking

    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.

    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2021 - Woodweb.com
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review Woodweb.com's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at Woodweb.com try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at Woodweb.com after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    865 Troxel Road
    Lansdale, PA 19446

    Contact Us

  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers

      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article