Im about to drop over 300 bucks for a blade for my 24 inches band saw im thinking of getting the 2 inch wide blade ...any comments would be appreciated...PS im getting the ceramic guides also
From contributor Cy
I would do some comparison shopping first. Laguna has never been known for their technical expertise. They certainly are known for aggressive marketing.
Be sure the saw/motor can spin that big blade. Talk to one or two independent tool suppliers about their blades and prices and life. For $300.00, the blade better put itself on the saw.
I have never used any type bandsaw very long without changing to Carter's ball bearing guides. There is no reason to have anything else. You want to break friction, not introduce it.
From contributor La
We run 1.25" Lenox blades on a Baker resaw with 20hp. They run quite awhile and track great. For $300 we could get a lifetime supply!
From contributor Ri
Talk to the folks at Spectrum Supply in Cleveland Ohio. They seem to be knowledgable. They have great customer service.
From contributor Je
Im guessing your looking at the RSK's at that price?carbide tipped blades. I run them on my saw and they do last a lot longer than HSS blades. Also with the RSK's you can get them re-sharpened by Laguna, I've heard some other carbides are harder to get re-sharpened...but no experience so?
As far as the blades go they work well and leave a really nice finish. You can saw nice thin hardwood veneers if your saw is tuned well. They don't feed quite as fast as I'd like though so it's a balance. I run 1" blades with I think are 3 TPI or so.
From contributor ph
thanks jeff for the good feedback do you think the 2 inch blade is overkill I was thinking it would stay straiter trought the cut
From contributor Je
I guess it depends more on your particular saw and what it will handle? If your saw is tuned well a sharp 1/2" blade will track nice and straight. If it's not?a 2" blade will still wander.
You may also want to look into Bi-metal blades. I've heard a lot of good feedback on them as well and significantly cheaper.
From contributor Co
Depends on if you need a dedicated resaw. Most resaws use wide blades 3~4". Narrower blades (1") are economical and do pretty well. But as the blade dulls the narrow band can not hold it true in the cut so cut quality degenerates. Carbide cuts for many linear feet but that planer finish is only in the first 250~400 linear feet. Then they can wander about .5mm with the grain, more so when you feed too fast. Correct tooth pitch is important for density and and height of stock. As Jeff said 3T is slooowww on anything taller than 6~8". 2/3 a little faster not so much though. Really dense woods like more teeth. So 3T for cocobolo and such. Many woods cut just fine with bimetal blades and leave a great finish but they may not last as long in hardwoods. You can resaw veneeres with them just as easy but for expensive wood the kerf maybe too wide. The WMCT is about .05" kerf.
I use the WMCT by Lenox for about $115 from Industrial Blade in CA for the 154". It's disposable, but last a good long time and is pretty inexpensive. I use mostly the 1.3T for ripping, resawing, etc... The 2T I use for joinery and resawing on upto 5~7",taller it's just pain fully slow.
My BS can only take a 1.25" blade so I stay with the WMCT. If I had capacity I would go with the widest blade I could fit on my machine for resawing work. Especially if I were to use a feeder.
Wider blades will have more industrial use choices for teeth i.e. Stellite which can be sharpening inexpensively at your local sharpening shop. Carbide needs a diamond wheel and costs more to sharpen. Especially thru Laguna. I would find another agent for sharpening than they. They are just marking it up.