<video id="75bvl"><noframes id="75bvl">
<listing id="75bvl"><thead id="75bvl"><listing id="75bvl"></listing></thead></listing>
<listing id="75bvl"></listing>
<listing id="75bvl"><cite id="75bvl"></cite></listing>
<var id="75bvl"><ruby id="75bvl"><th id="75bvl"></th></ruby></var><th id="75bvl"><th id="75bvl"></th></th><noframes id="75bvl">
<listing id="75bvl"></listing>
<span id="75bvl"><strike id="75bvl"><dl id="75bvl"></dl></strike></span>



Mirrored Medicine Cabinet Door Details

      A range of suggestions (and one nice photo) for medicine cabinet door construction details. February 19, 2011

Does anyone have any advice regarding building a nice medicine cabinet door? The last one I made I used 1/4 mirror and1/4 ply and it seemed way too heavy. Iím thinking of using 1/8 mirror, but what should I use on the back and how do you install it? Could I use 1/8 " material and stick it in the regular slot for the panel?

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor K:
What is wrong with single strength glass/mirror (3/32") and nothing on the back?

From contributor U:
We recently replaced a bunch of 1/8" mirrors that had 1/4" backing that had separated and buckled due to humidity, etc. I ordered new pivot hinges for thicker glass from Hafele and installed 1/4" mirrors. I actually bought two or three types of hinges till I found the one I liked. They are not that expensive. It worked out great.

From contributor J:
What about using two 1/8" mirrors back to back?

From contributor A:
We have had to do numerous nice looking ones over the years - beaded faceframes with thumbnail or square profile doors. We finally ended up with 3/32 mirror, mastic and 3/8" MDF backs. The backs are rabbeted and screwed to the back of the door. The back has a micro chamfer to ease the edge. The architects, builders, and customers all like the fact that the mirror can be replaced easily. No one cares how it looks because the door is closed 95% of the time. It looks tidy with the nickel plated screws. The screws do not split the stile/rails. Our typical paint grade doors use 3/8 MDF for flat panels and 5/8 MDF for raised panels. The weight of the 3/32 is nill. If you are really concerned throw on an extra hinge.

From the original questioner:
I think doing it with the MDF would look nice with what I'm doing on these. They're painted, so I can paint the MDF too. The two mirrors back to back would be a nice touch also.

From contributor B:
You can also have the glass shop wrap a coating like a white tape on the back side, same as on wardrobe doors.

From contributor O:
I not only put mirrors back to back in the door, I put a mirror in place of the plywood back in the cabinet.

Click here for higher quality, full size image

From the original questioner:
Great looking cabinet! Are the mirrors 1/8 pieces back to back? How are you putting them in? Do you glue them together?

From contributor O:
They are (2) 1/8" mirrors back to back with craft paper between. On 3/4 stock like these, I put a wooden stop. On 7/8" material, I use a vinyl stop used for glass doors. The back mirror sits in a rabbet secured with glazer points. A small amount of silicone in the rabbet on the door is used to prevent rattle.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?

Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: Cabinet Door Construction

    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.

    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2021 - Woodweb.com
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review Woodweb.com's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at Woodweb.com try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at Woodweb.com after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    865 Troxel Road
    Lansdale, PA 19446

    Contact Us

  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers

      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article